Glossary - Needles

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A general purpose sewing needle typically used by dressmakers. They have a short round eye which provides additional strength during sewing. The slim sharp point of the needle allows for straight stitches , piercing and quilting.

Crewel needles are similar to other embroidery needles but have a medium long eye to allow for the threading of thicker strands of thread and a sharp point. Along with surface embroidery, these needles are also used in goldwork and whitework where precision and delicacy are required. They can also be used in crewel embroidery and ribbon work. The most popular sizes are size 7 and size 9. 

Chenille needles are large eye needles and similar to Tapestry needles in length and diameter. However the Chenille point is sharper. Avoid using this needle on fine fabrics as the large eye may make holes in fabric. The sharp point allows for embroidery on closely woven fabrics and the large eye permits the threading of ribbon for ribbon work.

Tapestry needles have a blunt point and a large eye and are often used on canvas  and 

Evenweave. They are useful in Cross Stitch for example where the needle goes in between the weave of the fabric. The correct size needle for your project is determined by the fabric mesh or hole size of your material. The needle should pass through the fabric without stretching the threads around the hole.  Some Tapestry Needles have a curved tip which makes stitching in tight places or around complex seams easier. They may also be used in knitting, crochet, weaving , needlework and craft.

Embroidery floss is made of six separated strands that are wound into a large circle. Depending upon the desired thickness of your stitch, the 6 strands can be separated out individually then rejoined as 2,3,4,5 or 6 strands. DMC is a popular brand of stranded cotton floss and has a large range of colours and is of consistent quality. Floss is suitable for surface embroidery, needle painting such as satin stitch, cross stitch and counted thread sewing.  Floss may be used with a Sharp Needle however  if you wish to use more than a couple of strands, the larger eye of a Crewel needle may be more suitable.  When cutting your floss to length, most people will measure out a length from finger tip to elbow. This is a manageable length. Strands should be drawn from the floss individually then rematched with other strands if using 2 or more strands.

Embroidery Thread  is made of a single strand and often comes on a spool.  These threads are usually finer than ordinary sewing thread. Polyester threads are durable, strong and retain their colour over time.  However they may lose that strength  if exposed to conditions such as intense sunlight or moisture. Viscose threads are softer than polyester threads, and cotton threads not as vibrant in colour and not as resistant to wear and tear. However Cotton threads may be better suited for use on natural fiber fabrics.

Calico also known as Muslin in the USA, is a heavy plain woven fabric made from unbleached and under finished cotton fibers. It is sold after its final stitch is woven and looks rough in texture. It may be referred to as "loomstate" as is doesn't undergo any finishing since leaving the loom. It is less coarse than denim and usually cheap in price but may not feel soft against the skin. The weave of calico may be fairly dense and it is durable.

Before using Calico laundering may be necessary as it may shrink by roughly 10%  when first washed. This is often the fabric of choice for testing new garment designs, home decor items and craft projects.

Aida is an open weave cotton fabric where the weave creates a grid of squares. It comes in various counts, ranging from 6 to 22, with 14,16 and 18 being the most popular. This fabric is ideal for counted thread embroidery. In manufacture  a starch or "size" is applied to the fabric so that the AIDA is firm and can be stitched easily. Quality Aida should be even with no obvious gaps between fibers which may indicate a lesser quality. The balance between the vertical and horizontal weaves should appear balanced and even.

Even weave fabrics and canvas are usually made from cotton and rayon blends.  Typical counts of Evenweave are 25,28,32 and 36. It's a textile where the warp and weft threads are of the same size and thread count. Because it has consistent texture in an even grid it is suitable for use when stitching counted thread techniques such as Cross stitch, pulled and drawn thread work, Blackwork and Hardanger.

Lugana ( previously called Brittney fabric)is a soft,  heavy, even weave fabric made with a blend of cotton and rayon. It comes in various colours and the most popular count is 25 count. It is often used for table cloths, table linens and pillows as it has an elegant appearance, and for Hardanger projects.

Linen is a fabric made of the natural fibers of the flax plant and is available in various colours. It may have a lovely drape and is softer than Aida. The threads of linen may not all have the same thickness so vertical stitches per inch may not equal horizontal stitches per inch. Linen counts range from 22 for bigger stitches to 40 or more for smaller stitches. Commonly linen is stitched over 2 threads meaning a 28 count linen has 14 stitches per inch which is equivalent to 14 count Aida. 

After stitching your piece, the linen may be washed in warm (not hot) soapy water to remove oils from your hands.

Count. A 25CT cloth would have 25 thread lattices per 1 inch. 

Sometimes called"whitework embroidery"  it is a form of embroidery usually worked with white thread on white evenweave linen or cloth using counted thread and drawn thread  techniques. 

This embroidery uses detailed patterns to create an embroidered picture. Traditionally used to decorate collars and cuffs it often was a small floral motif in a repeated design. The stitches  commonly used are double running stitch back stitch and stem stitch.

Sashiko is a traditional Japanese stitching method used for both the functional reinforcement of clothing and decoration of garments and other items. Stitches are most commonly running stitch and patterns are often geometric designs.